Last snapshots from Finland

About time I finished recapping my trip to Finland, which ended about a month ago. Here’s a yummy little snack you’ll likely have trouble finding anywhere else: salmiakki ice cream.

P8231567-1

As I’ve mentioned before, salmiakki is the Finnish word for salty black licorice. Generally salmiakki is in candy form, but you can find it in other things too, like this vanilla ice cream cone swirled through with dark gray salmiakki ribbons and topped with crunchy licoricey sprinkles. As it turns out, salmiakki and vanilla (white chocolate as well) make an excellent combination—the sweetness balances the harshness, and the gentle creaminess is complimented by the salt. Very nice. I actually bought another non-candy product in Finland that utilized the flavor of salmiakki—Salmiakki-Chili flavored Dominos, which are the European answer to Oreos—but I forgot to take a picture of them. D’oh. Just imagine black cookies (darker than Oreos) sandwiching a dark gray cream filling. Stormy and dramatic, and surprisingly good. My Estonian colleagues liked them, and most Estonians don’t love salmiakki.

P8161460

One morning J’s mother put these darling breakfast boards out for us (I have no idea whether “breakfast board” is the actual name for these, but that’s what I would call this). Aren’t they adorable? And so Nordic, with the light wood and the yummy Karjalanpiirakka gracing the ceramic plate and the perfect ergonomically-designed mug? I guess the indentation in front is meant to be an egg cup, but J’m mother put one of her tiny homegrown strawberries in it. SO cute. (Unfortunately her strawberries didn’t do too well this year because the bees kept eating them :-( ).

P8151454

Terva. I’m not really sure I can count this as a food. It’s tar– you can read about how it’s made here. In Finland it’s used to flavor drinks and candies and is also used in saunas. When Finland joined the European Union, the EU wanted to outlaw the usage of tar. Isn’t that hilarious? The Finns and other Nordic people have been making and using this stuff for centuries, and the European Union wants to tell them it’s bad? Ha. Needless to say, terva is still legal today. I did taste a bit of it “straight”– essentially I just touched that drop of extremely viscous tar to my tongue, and the flavor of extremely bitter wood smoke exploded in my mouth. Very powerful stuff. I love the smokey smell, though.

P8161470

We got in some berry-picking this year as well! The first time we went out we got mostly raspberries and some lingonberries and blueberries, which J’s mother made into jams for us. The next time we focused on blueberries, since it seemed to be a good year for them– they were everywhere, and big ones too! We ended up with 4 plastic containers full, which we froze, then wrapped in an insulated bag and stuck into my luggage for the flight home. They actually made it back to Tallinn in good shape (as in, still frozen)! And now I have Finnish blueberries to last me through the winter. Love it.

And lest you think all I did in Finland was eat J’s parents’ food, here are some pictures of what we did to earn our meals.

P8151431-1

I learned how to split wood! I was so excited. I didn’t think I’d be strong enough but J’s dad had a brand-new, super-sharp and lightweight ax, and J was a good teacher. You can see the concentration on my face, as well as the wood splitting between your very eyes.

P8151439-1

There was also some of this. J has laughed at me many times in the past because the only lawnmower I’d ever used was the kind that propels itself forward. Lazy American :-D . But I proved that I can handle an old-school machine just as well.

And that, I believe, concludes my recap of this trip to Finland. But we’ll be there again at Christmastime, when I’ll surely discover more new foods and traditions.

Tuesday, 22 September, 2009. Tags: , , , , . Something to Eat, Travel. 2 comments.

Fish face

I’m afraid I’ve lost some of my blogging motivation lately. I know I don’t blog that consistently to begin with, but usually I want to and I just don’t have time. Recently I’ve had quite a lot of free time but I choose to do things other than blog, even though I have plenty of material so it’s not like coming up with a topic would be difficult. Ah well… I’ll try to finish posting about the food I ate in Finland and hopefully that will help to revive me in time to try NaBloPoMo again in November.

So. Since my birthday took place while we were visiting J’s parents in Finland, they prepared a birthday dinner for me that was, I’m guessing, based on one of my favorite meals the last time we were there.  I knew J’s father was smoking siika (siig in Estonian), or whitefish, but it wasn’t until be brought them to the table that I realized we each got our own personal fish!

P8181497-2Hey there.

P8181496-1

J offered to switch fish with me because mine was broken.

I had a moment of mild panic when it seemed like everyone was waiting for me to start eating, since I had no idea where to begin! Luckily J gave me a tutorial– peel back the skin on the top half and gently ease the meat off the delicate bones. Once that was set aside, you were to carefully peel up the spine, making sure most of the small bones stayed attached, and then you were free to attack the other side.

P8181498-1

Mmm. How is smoked fish so impossibly moist? It’s almost like it’s dripping smoky flavor. It was served with salad, boiled potatoes with dill, a creamy spinach sauce, and some onions that (I think) were cooked soft in water and butter (and tasted like heaven). It was all go good. Usually I’m a fairly dainty eater, meaning I generally only put a small amount of food in my mouth at a time. But at this meal, I was practically shoveling. I just couldn’t get enough. (There were probably two reasons for this– one is that it was delicious, and the other is that we had done yard work, gone jogging and gone to sauna since breakfast that morning so we were STARVING). In the end, I couldn’t even finish off a whole fish (much to J’s dad’s disappointment), but it was the best birthday dinner I could have asked for this year. (Interestingly, my excellent celebratory dinner last year was also seafood. I guess that’s just how I like to celebrate myself. Mmm… soft-shell crab…).

Saturday, 12 September, 2009. Tags: , . Something to Eat, Travel. 1 comment.

London, Part IX: Miscellaneous

And so my account of our trip draws to a close. We were incredibly happy with the vacation– discovering together a new city that has so much to offer and such a wonderful atmosphere, trying as many new things as possible, fully appreciating all the things we can’t get back in Tallinn. We returned home exhausted and broke but satisfied.

Here’s a few finals photos from the trip:

P5220714Dry cider in the Salisbury pub

I loved being able to get dry cider on tap everywhere– it’s so refreshing. Sorry I haven’t written about the different ciders and beers we tried while in England and Ireland– I didn’t take enough notes and I’m terrible at describing beer anyway.

P5140566Another fantastic Indian meal, all vegetarian


P5230726Very Berry Mocha Frappuccino, sans whip

Most days I just got a skinny latte from Starbucks, but one day I decided to try their special summer offering, the Very Berry Mocha Frappuccino. I didn’t love it; it had this fake berry flavoring that reminded me of the dried cherry pieces in the dark chocolate and cherry Kalev bar. It just didn’t appeal to me, and it didn’t suit the mocha coffee beverage. Oh well.

P5150613Fish and chips at the Golden Hind

The Golden Hind is supposed to be one of the best fish and chips places in the city. It was good, but I’m not enough of an expert to evaluate whether it’s among the best. The fish fillet was huge and the batter clung to it closely, no big crispy voids. The staff was very friendly and courteous, even when the tiny restaurant was swamped.

IMG_5595Me, taking the frappuccino picture you see above

Wednesday, 17 June, 2009. Tags: , , , . Travel. 1 comment.

And Dublin too

OK, I’ll  sum Dublin up quickly, since we were only there for three days, plus the food was so damn expensive we mostly just ate what was convenient and cost-efficient, not anything special. Or hell, maybe I’ll just reduce it to pictures. Our main priority in Dublin was to see as much as we could– pubs, parks, Kilmainham Gaol, Guinness Storehouse, Jameson Distillery, Oscar Wilde, Molly Malone. About half the time being outside was miserable because it was cold and/or rainy and/or windy. How are Irish people so damn friendly all the time? Perhaps the Guinness has something to do with it.

IMG_5114

IMG_5428A Guinness postcard alongside a real Guinness… we are so very clever

Guinness, which we swore tasted better and smoother in Dublin than it ever has before. Perhaps it was just the psychological effect of thinking “It’s fresh here, it MUST be better.” But we also discovered that the only two places Guinness is manufactured in Europe are Ireland and Moscow, so it seems likely that the Guinness in Estonia indeed comes from Moscow, so yeah. Maybe that’s why it’s a little different there.

P5190650

At the end of our Jameson Distillery tour, I chose to try a Jameson cocktail with cranberry juice and a lime wedge (actually it looks like a lemon wedge, but I swear it tasted like lime). The combination never would have occurred to me, but it was really good.

IMG_5156

Irish breakfast! It wasn’t anything fancy, but it was included in the price of our hotel.

P5180639

Like I said, sometimes we just ate what was convenient. I’m not proud.

Our real Irish dinner took place at the Brazen Head, which is apparently the oldest pub in Ireland and where we went 2 nights in a row to listen to Irish music. The atmosphere was great there– we really liked it. The day we went for dinner had been quite a rainy one, and I was tired and cold and so ready for comfort food. I got the Irish stew and J got bangers and mash. It was just what I needed.

P5200674

Irish stew

P5200673Bangers and mash

The stew was incredibly simple and with a very good number of tender lamb chunks amongst the carrots and other root vegetables. And the bread… mmm. I’m not sure if this was brown bread or soda bread, but it definitely had that soda-y flavor that I found terribly addicting. I think the only reason I stopped eating it was because it was all gone.

Tuesday, 16 June, 2009. Tags: , . Travel. 1 comment.

London, Part VIII: Noodles at Wagamama

Of course we had to try the popular British noodle chain Wagamama (and we got a 2-for-1 deal with our London Passes). It has some unique concepts– people sit at long cafeteria-style tables, and the food comes out whenever it’s ready, not necessarily in any particular order. The one we went to was pretty empty so we didn’t have to share our table with any other companions. I ordered the amai udon– thick udon noodles with some shrimp, tofu, egg, bean sprouts, red onion and leek, garnished with peanuts and lime.

P5240742

Mmmm– fat chewy udon noodles in a peanutty sauce with the tofu, shrimp and veggies providing lots of nice different textures. It was so damn good. Those thick noodles are so satisfying– I’m going to start looking for them in Estonia. Asian food is growing more popular all the time, so maybe I’ll have some luck and can start making my own peanutty udon creations.

Tuesday, 16 June, 2009. Tags: , . Travel. Leave a comment.

Next Page »