Quick London update
So my plans to post while in London didn’t exactly pan out, but the pressure was off since I’d already blown NaBloPoMo anyway. I’d much rather use my time to just enjoy being here– sampling holiday Starbucks flavors, Christmas shopping at Marks & Spencer, seeing “Wicked”, eating Indian food and scones with clotted cream (not at the same time). We also made a vegetarian Thanksgiving dinner, which I’ll blog about later. Hope your Saturday is as nice as mine will be!
Cookie and travel news
Have you ever visited Serious Eats? It’s a group food blog with fun food news and stories, recipes, experiments, and discussion boards. It’s constantly updated and always entertaining. On my visit there today, I saw that they have started conducting a “Chocolate Chip Cookie Championships”
. They’re trying some of the best cookies from different parts of the city, narrowing it down to finalists, and then eventually one will be named the Champion Cookie. Their competition is, unfortunately, based in New York, so I can only admire their delicious photos, read their reviews and dream about being part of their taste-testing team. I enjoy reading about other people taking chocolate chip cookies as seriously as I do (and these people are absolutely serious about their food– hence the name of the site).
And wait! Maybe all of these cookies aren’t so far away after all! In their preliminary round for Midtown cookies, the hands-down winner was from Pret a Manger. It looks divine. Pret a Manger happens to be a British chain… and guess who’s going to London next week?? Yes, that’s right, I’m heading to London again to meet up with a dear friend over the long Thanksgiving weekend (of course, I don’t actually get a Thanksgiving weekend, I just asked for a few days off). I’ll be making every effort to not break my blogging streak and to report on all the great food I’m sure to experience there– including that fine, fine-looking cookie!
Ribollita
I am so very excited, because this soup is one of my absolute favorite foods in the entire world. I can’t believe I’ve been blogging for over two years and I haven’t written about it yet. Now, finally, I will.
Oh, ribollita. It’s an Italian soup whose name means “reboiled”, or cooked twice. I had it for the first time while I was studying abroad in Italy and we took a day trip to Tuscany that included a farmhouse lunch. The first course was some bruschetta that I’ve written about before, and the second course was this. It was a very thick vegetable soup, almost more like a porridge in texture, and it tasted completely amazing. I had no idea what was in it, but to give you an idea of how madly in love I was, I had a second portion even though I knew we still had several courses of food to go. Somebody (probably not me) asked what it was called, and so we found out that the magical concoction was ribollita, a soup of vegetables, greens and white beans to which stale bread is added at the end of cooking.
I didn’t attempt my own ribollita until a few months later, when I was back in the States and living with my parents during winter break. I turned to the Food Network website, my primary source for recipes at the time, and found this one. Today there are a whole bunch of ribollita recipes on that site, but when I went looking around 6 years ago there was only this one. My first time trying it, I followed the recipe exactly, even though there was one thing in it that made me nervous– red cabbage. The version I’d tried in Italy was shades of green and brown, natural colors, and it certainly didn’t have red cabbage in it. In the end, my anxiety was justified– the powerful pigments in the red cabbage turned the entire soup a sickly grayish-purple. It was awful. I apologized profusely to my family. It still tasted fine, but the color was so unappetizing that even I barely wanted to eat it. Red cabbage? Terrible idea. Don’t do it.
But I used that recipe as a jumping-off point and formulated my own. Ribollita is one of those rustic foods that can be made in many, many different ways. Every Italian nonna probably has her own version. But this is how I make it.
First you need some crusty white bread. This is one loaf of ciabatta. I’m not sure how much it weighed.
If your bread is a few days old and stale, that’s great. It’s supposed to be a little dry. If you’re like me and buy the bread on the same day because you’re bad at planning ahead, slice or tear the bread into chunks, spread them on a baking sheet, and stick them into a low-temperature oven to dry out a bit.
This is the other stuff you need.
My attempt at a mise en place shot.
Onion and garlic (chopped), olive oil, carrot (chopped), tomato paste, potato (sliced thin), cabbage (cut into strips, very thick white parts removed), frozen spinach, white beans. Not everything is actually chopped yet because I wasn’t patient enough to do it all before I started cooking.
Heat a few spoonfuls of olive oil in a large pot. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft. Mmm… sauteing garlic and onion is one of the best smells in the world. Once they’re soft, add two tablespoons of tomato paste diluted in a cup of warm water (the exact amount of water isn’t important; just use a normal-sized drinking glass). After that, toss in the carrots and sliced potatoes. Let them be for a few minutes, then add the cabbage as well. If you’re lucky enough to have fresh spinach instead of frozen, throw that in too.
At this point the pot will be pretty crowded, but don’t worry. The cabbage starts to cook down quickly. You can put a lid on the pot to help the process, but it isn’t even necessary. Just keep it over medium heat for about an hour. Oh, add some salt and pepper too. This soup needs salt, so be generous.
Open your cans of beans. Using a fork, mash up the beans in one can without draining the liquid. Add the bean mash to the pot about halfway through cooking. Also, if you have frozen spinach, thaw a handful of that in the microwave, drain some of the liquid, and add it to the pot.
See? I told you it would cook down.
After the hour is almost up, add the other can of beans, which have been drained and left whole. At this point you should try a slice of potato or a thicker piece of cabbage to see if it’s cooked through. It may need a bit more time. I also fill one of the empty bean cans with water and add some of it to the pot, just to keep enough moisture in there. The veggies don’t need to become total mush. This soup is one of those things that’s even more amazing as leftovers, so if your veggies are a tad al dente today, it’s not a big deal– they soften up more through subsequent reheatings. Just use your judgement.
Once the veggies are sufficiently cooked, it’s time to add the bread. Here it is after being dried out a bit in the oven.
Keeping the soup pot over low heat, toss the bread chunks in and stir to incorporate them. This is why it helps for the bread to be dry– fresh, moist bread isn’t as good at absorbing the surrounding vegetable broth. You can toss some water in too, if it seems to need it. Let it sit for at least five minutes, then take it off the heat and serve. It’s excellent with a drizzle of olive oil and/or a sprinkling of a hard Italian cheese, such as Parmiggiano-Reggiano.
It may not look like much, but from those humble ingredients rises something that is so, so much more than the sum of its parts. It’s hard to believe that this soup requires no herbs, no stock, just salt and pepper. The flavor is rich, almost sweet, and those little pockets of bread are chewy and so satisfying. The olive oil drizzled over the top adds a bit of tang and another layer of complexity. It’s simple “peasant food”, made from the simplest and cheapest components, but it doesn’t taste simple at all. It’s wonderfully hearty and also quite healthy. I just love it.
Just writing all of that out made me tired, so you’ll have to wait until tomorrow for me to post a more formally written recipe. I hope you can wait till then to make this yourself
. The recipe is here!
Aronias
Edit: I’m so embarrassed! I wrote a whole post on aronias only to discover that I was talking about the wrong berry! The berries we picked were actually Empetrum nigrum, or crowberries, and not Aronia melanocarpa or aronias/chokeberries! I made some changes to the original post.
On one of our berry-picking outings in Finland this past summer, we noticed that there were tons of these dark, almost-black berries that looked kinda similar to blueberries but weren’t. They were firmer than blueberries and had a more bland, slightly acidic taste, with crunchy little seeds. J knew that they were useful for something, and since they were so easy to pick, he picked a LOT.
When we got back to J’s parents’ place, his parents looked at our bounty. “Variksenmarjat,” his mother said. “What are you going to do with those?” We confessed that we actually didn’t know– what can one do with these berries? J’s mother said they’re not really good for eating but you can make a decent juice out of them, but even she didn’t seem all that enthusiastic about them. So we had this pile of berries that don’t taste that great and that we had no idea what to do with– is it any surprise that I made room in my suitcase for four containers of blueberries, but the poor variksenmarjat stayed behind? I don’t even have a picture from when we picked them– that’s how unremarkable they were. (I also didn’t mention them when I blogged about the trip!).
But soon after I returned to Estonia, I began noticing things on the internet. “Aronias are in season.” What are aronias? I wondered. I found a picture of them. Hmm… they looked familiar. What else? “Aronias, also called chokeberries, are the new superfood.” “Aronias are packed with antioxidants.” Since the photos I was seeing on the internet reminded me of the berries we’ve found in Finland, I mistakenly thought our variksenmarjat were, in fact, aronias. That made me pretty excited– these berries apparently have one of the highest antioxidant levels ever recorded– more than blueberries or pomegranates — and can help with a host of medical conditions. They also contains the highest concentration of flavonoids, which help the body fight off viruses and allergies. I did an old-school movie forehead slap– did we seriously leave a bucket full of hand-picked, antioxidant-rich superfood in Finland?? Noooooo!!
Crowberries– not aronias!
Then J’s parents came to visit us, and without us even asking, they brought the berries with them! (They’d been frozen, and J’s parents are experts at transporting frozen goods, seriously). I had to scramble to make enough room in our freezer, but still, I was thrilled that we’d gotten them back! But the question still remained– what to do with them?
Of course by now my excitement has worn off, as it was pointed out that our bounty isn’t aronias at all
. Bummer! But now I have to ask– anybody know what to do with crowberries?
Last snapshots from Finland
About time I finished recapping my trip to Finland, which ended about a month ago. Here’s a yummy little snack you’ll likely have trouble finding anywhere else: salmiakki ice cream.

As I’ve mentioned before, salmiakki is the Finnish word for salty black licorice. Generally salmiakki is in candy form, but you can find it in other things too, like this vanilla ice cream cone swirled through with dark gray salmiakki ribbons and topped with crunchy licoricey sprinkles. As it turns out, salmiakki and vanilla (white chocolate as well) make an excellent combination—the sweetness balances the harshness, and the gentle creaminess is complimented by the salt. Very nice. I actually bought another non-candy product in Finland that utilized the flavor of salmiakki—Salmiakki-Chili flavored Dominos, which are the European answer to Oreos—but I forgot to take a picture of them. D’oh. Just imagine black cookies (darker than Oreos) sandwiching a dark gray cream filling. Stormy and dramatic, and surprisingly good. My Estonian colleagues liked them, and most Estonians don’t love salmiakki.

One morning J’s mother put these darling breakfast boards out for us (I have no idea whether “breakfast board” is the actual name for these, but that’s what I would call this). Aren’t they adorable? And so Nordic, with the light wood and the yummy Karjalanpiirakka gracing the ceramic plate and the perfect ergonomically-designed mug? I guess the indentation in front is meant to be an egg cup, but J’m mother put one of her tiny homegrown strawberries in it. SO cute. (Unfortunately her strawberries didn’t do too well this year because the bees kept eating them
).

Terva. I’m not really sure I can count this as a food. It’s tar– you can read about how it’s made here. In Finland it’s used to flavor drinks and candies and is also used in saunas. When Finland joined the European Union, the EU wanted to outlaw the usage of tar. Isn’t that hilarious? The Finns and other Nordic people have been making and using this stuff for centuries, and the European Union wants to tell them it’s bad? Ha. Needless to say, terva is still legal today. I did taste a bit of it “straight”– essentially I just touched that drop of extremely viscous tar to my tongue, and the flavor of extremely bitter wood smoke exploded in my mouth. Very powerful stuff. I love the smokey smell, though.

We got in some berry-picking this year as well! The first time we went out we got mostly raspberries and some lingonberries and blueberries, which J’s mother made into jams for us. The next time we focused on blueberries, since it seemed to be a good year for them– they were everywhere, and big ones too! We ended up with 4 plastic containers full, which we froze, then wrapped in an insulated bag and stuck into my luggage for the flight home. They actually made it back to Tallinn in good shape (as in, still frozen)! And now I have Finnish blueberries to last me through the winter. Love it.
And lest you think all I did in Finland was eat J’s parents’ food, here are some pictures of what we did to earn our meals.

I learned how to split wood! I was so excited. I didn’t think I’d be strong enough but J’s dad had a brand-new, super-sharp and lightweight ax, and J was a good teacher. You can see the concentration on my face, as well as the wood splitting between your very eyes.

There was also some of this. J has laughed at me many times in the past because the only lawnmower I’d ever used was the kind that propels itself forward. Lazy American
. But I proved that I can handle an old-school machine just as well.
And that, I believe, concludes my recap of this trip to Finland. But we’ll be there again at Christmastime, when I’ll surely discover more new foods and traditions.




